22nd November-7th December 2015 Morelia, Michoacan to Palenque, Chiapas Mexico

It has been a strange time over the last three weeks with travelling in Mexico, interrupted by a 10 day visit to Hong Kong for me, while for Dave, my side trip meant a long stay on the Pacific coast of Mexico waiting for me to come back. We are now back in the swing of travelling together and the trip is made all the more enjoyable by the knowledge that I have a job for next school year and we will be moving to Hong Kong.

The last place we visited before I left for Asia was Morelia in Michoacan. This city is not visited much by gringo tourists but we were so glad we went as it was stunning and very European.

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There were great vegetarian restaurants and we stayed in a cute colonial house where they let us bring the bike inside the courtyard.

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This is also the place where I realised for the first time that I speak Spanish. I had no difficulty communicating with the housekeeper Lupe which quite surprised me.

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One of the highlights of our stay was Sunday when the main street is closed to traffic to enable local people to cycle, rollerblade and do other things right in the centre of the city that they would not be bale to do normally. We had a ringside seat, right opposite the cathedral and spent a lazy early afternoon there drinking beer.

I then went off to Mexico City on the bus. The bus was luxurious and easy and I stayed overnight at one of the airport hotels before my 23 hour flight to Hong Kong via LAX. I had a scare as I had not realised until I boarded my flight that I would have to go through immigration in the USA before getting on the flight to Hong Kong (weird I know but this is how they do it in the USA). Technically I was not allowed back into the country (until I visit another country that is not Mexico or Canada) because of my visa situation. I stayed calm and for some reason, the immigration officer did not seem to notice my illegal status and stamped me in for another 90 days. Phew!

After returning to Mexico City via Toronto, I flew to meet Dave in Puerto Escondido on the Pacific coast of Oaxaca.We spent 2 hot days there and then two days in wonderful (but also hot) Zipolite, just down the coast, drinking too much beer and eating chips (french fries) every day, while I recovered from the trip.

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Zipolite is a hippy paradise consisting of stunning beach, great restaurants and a laid back vibe. We loved it there but our room was not as comfy as we would have liked, mostly due to the heat.

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We headed off to the mountains for three days in San Cristobal de las Casas. This is another amazing colonial city built at 2,200m. On the way up the fog descended upon us for a while and we could hardly see 30m ahead.

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Our cottage was gorgeous and fully equipped with everything we needed except a heater. Luckily we have full thermal underwear and light down jackets and we wore them for most of the three days we were there.

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Our Cottage

The town is really beautiful and atmospheric but hard to photograph due to the traffic and the lack of light on gloomy days. Most of the people here are indigenous Mexicans and they look very different to the rest of the country, much more how you imagine people look in South America. We also saw a lot of women wearing traditional dress, consisting of a thick, hairy, black skirt and a colourful shawl. You can see some if you closely at the picture below.SAMSUNG CSC

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On our first day in town we encountered a bike rally of about 100 bikes in the main square. We have not seen many bikes since arriving in Mexico, nearly 2 months ago and it seemed they were all here in one place.

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We really loved the atmosphere here but were driven out by the cold in the end.

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The journey down to the lowlands was 200km of winding, mountain roads with a lot of fog and some rain.

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The villages are poor here and remind me of Laos or Nepal but they are not as quaint.

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Arriving in the thick, moist jungle of Palenque, our intention was to stay and extra day to visit the Mayan ruins. However, our plans were thwarted by very heavy rain, forcing us to stay in the hotel and chill out for the day (never a hardship). We will pick the ruins up on the way back through Mexico in a couple of months.

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We are now heading across the Yucatan peninsula and down into Belize and across to Guatemala to arrive at Lake Atitlan in time for Christmas weber we have rented a house for the holiday.

 

22nd October-2nd November- Baja California Sur to Mainland Mexico

So it has been over a week since I last posted. There has not been much to report as we have been holed up most of the time while I have been working on the thesis. We have also both had some job interviews by Skype with schools in Brazil, Singapore and Switzerland.

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We spent a couple of days in La Paz and celebrated our 17th wedding anniversary there.

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We also visited the customs office in order to get the documents we need to import the bike to the mainland. We do not need a carnet de passage for Mexico in order to import but we did need to leave a deposit of about US$400 which we get back when we leave the country. This is to guarantee that we do not sell the bike illegally while we are here.

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We then moved to Cabo San Lucas at the tip of Baja.  There was some nice scenery on the way.

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And a bit of dodgy road.

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Cabo is famous for spring break among college students in the USA. We were expecting it to be debauched but after living in Thailand for 6 years, it seemed very tame. We stayed near the marina and enjoyed pottering about there. There were some decent shops and I managed to replace some of my clothes that have worn out. It is amazing how good quality stuff just wears out when you have been away for 15 weeks and using it a lot. The rubber on the souls of my sandals just split in half and something else developed a huge hole.

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There is a posh department store called Liverpool. Which we thought was amusing.

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We moved to San Jose del Cabo while we were waiting for the ferry crossing to Mazatlan.  We could have gone earlier but there were no cabins available for a week. We are just too old these days to sleep on deck or in an airline chair with video blaring out all night. We were lucky to find a gorgeous apartment to stay in cheaply, while we waited. We were the first to have stayed there.

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Dave did some work on the bike. We cooked a lot of meals as Mexican food is truly terrible for vegans (like Spain).

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The town was quite charming. A taste of what is to come on the mainland.

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It was here that the dentist informed me I need root canal work. I am heading to the dentist in Mazatlan tomorrow to have it done. At least it is cheap here. Well US$300, if you call that cheap. In the USA it would cost about US$1000. In the UK, if you are lucky enough to have an NHS dentist, it costs 80 quid but who has an NHS dentist these days?

We were sad to leave Baja. We have loved it but we are very excited to get to central Mexico.

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The ferry to Mazatlan was great fun. This is a pretty old ferry with few facilities, used mainly by truckers.

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We met some others bikers while waiting to board.

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We had to hunker down in the shade of the bike to avoid getting heat stroke.

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We really enjoyed having a couple of beers on board, sitting in the slightly grotty bar with the truckers and then sitting up on deck watching the sunset.

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We now head up into the central highlands and the beautiful colonial heartland of Mexico. We will be visiting Guadalajara, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende and many other places. There might be interviews coming up which will mean me flying out of Mexico for a few days but let’s wait and see what happens. We have tickets for Pearl Jam in Mexico City at the end of the month, so lots to look forward to.

Sunday 18th-Wednesday 21st October-Loreto, Baja California, Mexico

We have spent 4 wonderful days in the lovely, small town of Loreto on the coast north of La Paz. This has been one of our favourite places of the last 3 months.

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It feels very Mexican here. It is green and hot. The garden of the beautiful Damiana Hotel is full of fruit trees and butterflies and a hummingbird.

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Everything is colourful and the people are lovely. We have lain in hammocks and chilled out and I have done a lot of work on my thesis. It is very easy to think here.

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The hotel is really a special place. We have a gorgeous casita in the garden which the owners have given us for a reduced price. We were even welcomed with a free bottle of cold beer each when we arrived hot and tired.

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It is quiet as it is the low season and we almost have the place to ourselves.

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We can cook in the wonderful outdoor kitchen on the 1953 vintage stove.

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Shopping for food is not as easy as we hoped. It is actually hard to get good quality vegetables and the sourcing tinned beans is very difficult, unless they are refried in lard. I guess most Mexicans cook their beans from dried. Avocados are also sold unripe for you to ripen at home. The town is really cute with a few craft shops and plenty of restaurants and an old mission from 1679.

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And some odd shops. Notice no apostrophe.

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It will be very hard to leave but we are heading for La Paz tomorrow, after I do a Skype interview with a school in Brazil in the morning!

Thursday 15th-Sunday 18th October-Baja California, Mexico

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We have had three wonderful days crossing the desert from El Rosario to Loreto. We crossed another time zone and travelled through some awesome landscapes.

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Baja is much better than people tell you. The skies are the biggest I have seen.  And the emptiness is impressive.

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Also after 48 hours of feeling disoriented in a less developed country, I now feel like I have always been here and remember all of the reasons that we have chosen to travel almost exclusively in the less developed world for the last 20 years.

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The highlights of the last 3 days have definitely been the landscapes. Baja is much more mountainous than I ever imagined.

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It is also much greener than you think.

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The weird cacti are a major highlight.

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They just go on for ever. We have been riding through landscapes like this for over 500 miles. I have not got tired of them yet.

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Last night we stayed in the oasis of San Ignacio. This was just like oases I remember from travelling in Egypt, full of date palms. We saw vermillion flycatchers on the way to breakfast this morning. 

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Doing yoga out by the pool at 6am was wonderful. The air was so cool.

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The town came to recognition in the 1700s due to the mission built here by the Jesuits who used the town as a base to spread Christianity across Baja.

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We have also seen a fair few volcanoes today which were unexpected.

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We have seen both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez which is effectively a massive, almost lagoon separating the east coast of Baja  from the mainland of Mexico. We will be spending more time on this coast over the next few days.

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One of the highlights for Dave has been the off road riding where there are roadworks.

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He loves the sand a lot more than I do.

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Monday 7th-Thursday 10th September -Washington State and Seattle-coast to coast complete

We left our good friend’s house in Big Sky, Montana 6 days ago in freezing cold weather to head for Seattle. A 4 day ride that had few highlights due to the cold weather. We stuck to the Interstate 90 in order to move as fast as possible as it was too cold for motorcycling in the gear we have (even though we have full thermal underwear and light down jackets). We stayed at a couple of cool, old style motels, ate some reasonable Mexican food and hunkered down.

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Motels – pure Americana

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We left Montana and briefly entered Idaho before arriving in Washington State. I was starting to think that this was the dullest landscape we had encountered so far when we came into an area of incredible cloudscape, The most amazing I had ever seen. This kept us entertained for about an hour. I have not photoshopped these photos. This is how it looked. The clouds were so close you could almost touch them.

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Clouds

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More clouds

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Yet more clouds

We are huge grunge fans and big fans of Frasier too (which was not actually filmed in Seattle apparently) so Seattle was a must for us. This also marked the crossing of the USA from the Atlantic to Pacific coast which is a huge milestone. We have ridden 7,000 miles since leaving Germany. We have crossed 20 states in the USA in 7 weeks. Anyway back to Seattle…

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Seattle with clouds

I was not prepared for the stunning setting of this city built on the water and totally surrounded by rugged mountains. Hard to capture in photographs to be honest. It must be a great place to live being so close to so many outdoor opportunities. We were lucky with the weather. It is famous for rain here but we had blue skies and endless sunshine for two days (despite how it looks on the picture below).

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Space Needle, Seattle and clouds

The main focus of the trip was a grunge tour where we got to see the places where grunge music began. We saw the blacksmith shop, underneath which is the practice room where the other Pearl Jam members first took Eddie Vedder when he arrived from California to join the band.

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The blacksmith’s was open, the rehearsal room is still there, it was not being used at the time, but we weren’t taken in 

We saw the famous Crocodile club.

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We weren’t taken inside here, either

The apartments where the film Singles was filmed.

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From the outside

The house where Kurt Cobain sadly took his own life and the bench where people congregate to pay their respects.

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Okay, can’t really expect to be taken inside here; I was reminded of our visit to the Dakota Building, all very sad (Dave)

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And the Black Hole Sun sculpture after which the Soundgarden track is named (note the Space Needle in the middle.

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I guess you have to be a real fan like us to appreciate the significance of these places. We also saw the Jimmy Hendrix statue. He came from Seattle too. What a great musical heritage this city has.

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Get out the van, stand by the statue a bit, get back in the van

Seattle is also famous for the Space Needle, landmark from the 1962 World’s Fair and setting of the Elvis film It Happened at the World’s Fair, which we love. Most of the site is still intact and wonderfully kitsch.

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Actually, I’m fairly sure that It Happened at the World’s Fair is pretty unwatchable; it will take a Sunday afternoon and a hangover to check

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We loved Seattle. The city does seem to have a lot of homeless people in the downtown areas (more than I have seen in any other western city) and feels a bit gritty in parts but there are great neighbourhoods and there is a good vibe. It is a place we could live.

Friday 21st to Wednesday 26th August -More of Colorado

We have packed in a lot of scenery over the last few days plus a lot of camping in cool places and a night out in Boulder.

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Highlights have included the ride from Gunnison to Carbondale via Black Canyon.

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The canyon plunges to 2000 ft at one point but we were going in the wrong direction for the best views so I kept having to look over my shoulder. Nevertheless it was spectacular.

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The views were a bit smoky that day due to forest fires hundreds of miles away.

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Carbondale was a cool little town with very friendly, liberal folk who stopped to chat with us. The campsite was on the Crystal River with a lovely mountain view and a great games room with leather sofas. The picture below was the view from our tent.

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We left the next day, heading for Leadville via Aspen and the Top of the Rockies scenic byway. The area around Aspen is the greenest we have seen so far.

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Aspen was interesting, full of designer shops and rich people trying not to look like they are rich.

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There was great mountain backdrop though and a gorgeous little Saturday market . It reminded me a bit of a town we visited in the French Alps last summer.

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The ride up to Independence Pass and the Top of the Rockies was stunning. There are about 20 of the highest mountains in the Rockies that can be viewed from here.

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At 3,700m, this is the highest we have ever been on the bike.

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It was pretty cold and windy and the ride up was marred a bit by the 25 mph speed limit but at least there were no RVs as they are banned. If you take your RV up there and get stuck, you have to pay $1500.

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We camped in Leadville at 3045m for two nights. We loved it here. The air was so pure and the area was totally unspoiled. There were no showers or WiFi or even grass but we totally fell in love with the place. Being told that bears did not visit the site also helped.

The site was on the banks of the Turquoise Lake.

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We returned back here after our night in Boulder to do an oil change on the bike.

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It had been leaking oil for over a week so we picked up a new oil filter at the Triumph dealer in Denver and got on with it.

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We are very relieved that the bike is now running well and no more leaking.

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Leadville is a great old mining town which came to prominence during the gold rush. There were some fabulous old buildings there.

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Including an old saloon from 1879 where we stopped in for a quick drink. No draft beer though, what a disappointment.

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The interior was fabulous though and included huge, moth eaten stuffed animals, including  a buffalo and a golden eagle.

2015-08-23 12.21.02Today we finally left Leadville to head north to Grand Lake in the Rocky Mountain National Park.

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We are told that moose visit the campsite every day but we have not seen one yet. We saw a wild fire en route and also the evidence of a previous fire.

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Tomorrow we cross into Wyoming after 11 days in Colorado. We are heading for Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks and Big Sky Montana where will be staying at the house of a friend.

Thursday 20th -Friday 21st August-Colorado Mountain Towns

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We spent three days at the Tall Texan Campground in Gunnison, relaxing, watching birds, including a woodpecker and a hummingbird, and pottering about. We have enjoyed that a lot. We like the cold.

We also had a brief trip into downtown Gunnison and a ride out to Crested Butte, a ski resort.

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Crested Butte – hee hee hee

Colorado towns really are exceptionally lovely. Resort towns are full of cool bars, cafes, yoga studios and beautiful shops selling artisan products such as green chilli peanut brittle (!)-a hipster’s dream. All of this with stunning mountain backdrops. We have ridden through quite a few and know there are more to come.

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Crested Butte would be the perfect place to spend a few days but the campsite is too far from the centre to make it worthwhile. I can imagine how stunning it must be in the winter when the place is covered in snow.

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I get the feeling it is a place that you have to be quite rich to enjoy to the full and certainly to stay here in the centre. There were some really cute cottages. Maybe in the next life.

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We found a great bar and had a couple of soft drinks and some sweet potato fries and admired the street from the 1st floor balcony while listening to reggae. It felt like being on holiday.

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We cleverly Photoshopped Dave’s hair out of this picture

Gunnison is more of a working town and the busy main road goes right through the centre but that is often the case with towns here. There were a lot of bikers passing through here, mostly on Harleys. I notice that they order Bloody Marys even though they are riding.

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Gunnison is a good place to get things done. We have sourced and had a new chain fitted to the bike. We have also ordered new sprockets which we have to collect in Denver next week.

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Until then we will be staying in the mountains. Next stop is Carbondale and then Leadville,where we will be camping at over 10,000 feet.

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Monday 18th August-The Rocky Mountains at Last

So we finally arrived in the Rocky Mountains yesterday. The weather was stunning. Endless pale blue skies, no cloud and soft sunshine. The Colorado Rockies are spectacular at every turn but not at all what I expected. Firstly, as the surrounding land is so high already, the mountain peaks do not soar above you. They are not that much higher than the valley and the gradient is gentle. There are many 14,000 ft peaks but you can actually cycle up to the top of highest.

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Secondly, it is still incredibly arid at 10-12,000 feet, so not as green as you would expect.

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Thirdly, the landscape is incredibly varied. It changes constantly after exiting the high plain. There are high passes covered in pine trees, as you would find in say The Alps but there are also vast U shaped valleys, bigger than anything I have seen before, high semi-arid plateaus, covered in scrub and low undulating mountain areas, interspersed with sandy coloured rocky outcrops and gorges. The colours are more pink and gold than green and grey. We saw no snow, even on the tops.

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We crossed a pass at just over 3,000m (sorry for changing from metres to feet) which is higher than we have been on a bike before (the highest ass we have crossed in Europe is 2,600m). It was very cold but the views were stunning. The air is incredibly thin and pure. The riding here was just as we like it-steep and twisty.

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We had lunch at a gorgeous town called Lake City (population about 1,000-yes they call it a city.) All the buildings were made from timber, some quite old and there was a wonderful laid back vibe. On the approach to the town, in the Gunnison National Forest area, all of the pine trees are dead-hundreds of thousands of them or more. In places, they are clearing them, leaving the mountainside looking very bare. Later, I read this is caused by Spruce Beetle and is affected by the droughts since 2013. I was too cold at this point to take photos but the images are burned in my memory.

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Crossing the high plateaus after lunch it was very windy. We kept having to crouch down to decrease the wind resistance. We could see the highest peaks towards Aspen in the distance. We passed a huge lake before arriving at Gunnison, our destination.

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We have decided to stay here for 2-3 days as we have not had a day off from riding for a while and did not manage the planned time off earlier due to bad weather. The town has good amenities and some great day rides. On the downside, it is the coldest town in the USA in the winter and even in August the temperatures go down pretty low at night. At 6am this morning, my phone said it was 3 degrees celsius. We have good sleeping bags, thermal underwear and light down jackets and we love the cold so it suits us fine.

We have had a few issues with the bike this week. Dave has gone off this morning to get a new chain fitted and we plan to head for Denver next week to collect some new sprockets. We are also leaking oil and hoping it is just overflowing. The bike is our trusty steed and our trip is entirely dependent upon it so it lust come first. Any money spent on maintenance and repairs is money well spent. We have clocked  up more than 4,000 miles in the last 5 weeks and there are a lot more to come.

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Sunday 16th-Tuesday 18th August- Arriving in Colorado via New Mexico

The Rocky Mountains really has been our destination since we began 4 weeks ago. The mountains are where we feel most at home (and a major reason for leaving Berlin where it is very flat). Hence the excitement at the prospect of arriving in Colorado.

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After leaving the motel, we crossed into New Mexico almost immediately. All industrialisation vanished and we were left with wonderfully huge, empty plains. We left early and it was cool. It made me realise how suffocating the previous day’s ride had been in Texas. For a short while we turned onto a tiny road that wound through rocky outcrops, very reminiscent of the cowboy films we used to watch when we were kids. It was the most enjoyable riding we have done in the US so far. We saw no other vehicles but we did see a big, shiny, red snake slither across the road.

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Crossing the border into Colorado, the plains became even more empty and beautiful with distant mountain views. This is the first time I have been able to imagine Native Americans living in the landscape. You can see why this land was so important to them. It is now one of the most sparsely populate areas of the USA. It struck me how sad it was that the tribes were driven off when the land snow standing empty and unused. I saw a Pronghorn, an unusual antelope type critter that once was almost extinct and several deer.

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We spent the first night at a state park campground on Lake Trinidad. The nearby town had a hint the old west (as do most of the towns around here). The campsite was baking hot with little shade when we arrived but the cloud soon came over and the rest of the day and night was punctuated with rain and thunder storms.

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I keep emphasising how friendly the people are but really, here in Colorado, they are, almost overwhelmingly friendly. On the campsite, one guy brought us a fresh tomato he had picked that morning and two couples invited us into their RVs when it was raining. The park ranger had a long chat about the benefit of alloy wheels on the Tiger. We met two separate British ladies who are now living out here and chatted with them. We also met a guy on a coffee stop who wanted to chew over the problems of the US education system and recommend an Indian pueblo for us to visit. Even the state trooper who nicked us for speeding was friendly as he doled out the $170 fine (which should have been more but for his discretion).

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I have to say that I am desperate to get to the mountains. We were forced to stop shot, in the town of Monte Vista, yesterday due to a forecast storm. We enjoyed an unplanned hotel night, a meal out at a Chinese restaurant and a comfy bed.

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As you ride west here, into the mountains, they seem to keep getting further away. It is quite frustrating. We should get there today. We are already at 7600 feet though and have been over 8,000 (about 2400m). The altitude creeps up on you here. We have not slept as high since we trekked in Nepal in 1997. I have noticed some symptoms of mild mountain sickness, like fatigue, headache (made much worse by drinking only one bottle of Budweiser) and irritability. They should ease off.The bike is also suffering a little, with both a water and oil leak and it is labouring more with the thinner air. Today we will be riding up to about 9,000 feet (about 2700m) which we have done in Europe, crossing high passes but not for extended periods of time.

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Saturday 15th August- the Texan Plains

For the last hour yesterday we had started seeing a lot of references to Native Americans, including a weird Cherokee Subway (yes the sandwich shop). Dave had been very keen to visit the site of the Sand Creek Massacre in Colorado but the site is accessed on an 8 mile unpaved road, which is hard on a very heavily loaded bike, two-up. We decided on the Washita Battlefield site instead as we wanted to learn more and pay respects.

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The site is part of the national parks service and free to visit. We already knew about the controversy surrounding whether this was a battle between Custer’s men and the Cheyenne or a massacre of Black Kettle, his wife and a hundred others, men, women and children. We watched a very informative 30-minute film about the situation leading up to the battle in 1868 and the massacre itself. We looked at a few artifacts, before riding up the site. It was on a lonely and isolated stretch of road, in a preserved area of grassland, which was really very beautiful. We hope to see more Native American sites as we move around. This was a good start and well worth the effort.

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The rest of the day was a traveller’s dream. Empty roads, strange and unfamiliar landscapes and a real, old school motel at the end of it (as well as some terrible Mexican food in a restaurant without beer.) It took us back to days riding across India in 1996-7.

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The main highlight was crossing into Texas from Oklahoma. The gently undulating plains and red earth immediately changed to become more flat and pale. The roads got worse. It got hotter. We saw our first real cowboys wearing Stetsons, jeans and spurs on their boots. We sat in a diner eating nuts and listening to the new but familiar accents (maybe from old western films, maybe from Dallas on TV).

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The roads were dead straight and you could see for miles along the road in front and what looked like hundreds of miles across the plain either side.

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Hawks soared overhead. We began to see a few oilrigs, small ones, then more, including nodding donkeys.

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The only other vehicles were tankers. There was the odd cattle ranch but nothing else. We saw very few homes in 200 miles. Why would anyone live out here anyway?

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For some reason the speed limit on this single carriageway road was 65-75mph. We bombed along, making good time. Towards the end of the journey to Dalhart, we began to see oil refineries and it became more industrial. At road works, we had a “pilot car” drive in front of us at 5mph so we could follow it through-a bit like the safety car in Formula 1.

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At our destination, we were met by a lovely, old school, Indian gentleman, with a thick Indian accent, who told us he came from London. Later his wife sought us out for a chat about the old country. She told me she was from England and had lived in the US since 2003 but she hardly spoke a word of English. We shared how much we missed Indian food and she told me about how much easier life is here in the US. Her motel is old school, with flowery curtains and walls painted orange but spotless and welcoming.

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mexican rest