22nd November-7th December 2015 Morelia, Michoacan to Palenque, Chiapas Mexico

It has been a strange time over the last three weeks with travelling in Mexico, interrupted by a 10 day visit to Hong Kong for me, while for Dave, my side trip meant a long stay on the Pacific coast of Mexico waiting for me to come back. We are now back in the swing of travelling together and the trip is made all the more enjoyable by the knowledge that I have a job for next school year and we will be moving to Hong Kong.

The last place we visited before I left for Asia was Morelia in Michoacan. This city is not visited much by gringo tourists but we were so glad we went as it was stunning and very European.

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There were great vegetarian restaurants and we stayed in a cute colonial house where they let us bring the bike inside the courtyard.

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This is also the place where I realised for the first time that I speak Spanish. I had no difficulty communicating with the housekeeper Lupe which quite surprised me.

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One of the highlights of our stay was Sunday when the main street is closed to traffic to enable local people to cycle, rollerblade and do other things right in the centre of the city that they would not be bale to do normally. We had a ringside seat, right opposite the cathedral and spent a lazy early afternoon there drinking beer.

I then went off to Mexico City on the bus. The bus was luxurious and easy and I stayed overnight at one of the airport hotels before my 23 hour flight to Hong Kong via LAX. I had a scare as I had not realised until I boarded my flight that I would have to go through immigration in the USA before getting on the flight to Hong Kong (weird I know but this is how they do it in the USA). Technically I was not allowed back into the country (until I visit another country that is not Mexico or Canada) because of my visa situation. I stayed calm and for some reason, the immigration officer did not seem to notice my illegal status and stamped me in for another 90 days. Phew!

After returning to Mexico City via Toronto, I flew to meet Dave in Puerto Escondido on the Pacific coast of Oaxaca.We spent 2 hot days there and then two days in wonderful (but also hot) Zipolite, just down the coast, drinking too much beer and eating chips (french fries) every day, while I recovered from the trip.

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Zipolite is a hippy paradise consisting of stunning beach, great restaurants and a laid back vibe. We loved it there but our room was not as comfy as we would have liked, mostly due to the heat.

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We headed off to the mountains for three days in San Cristobal de las Casas. This is another amazing colonial city built at 2,200m. On the way up the fog descended upon us for a while and we could hardly see 30m ahead.

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Our cottage was gorgeous and fully equipped with everything we needed except a heater. Luckily we have full thermal underwear and light down jackets and we wore them for most of the three days we were there.

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Our Cottage

The town is really beautiful and atmospheric but hard to photograph due to the traffic and the lack of light on gloomy days. Most of the people here are indigenous Mexicans and they look very different to the rest of the country, much more how you imagine people look in South America. We also saw a lot of women wearing traditional dress, consisting of a thick, hairy, black skirt and a colourful shawl. You can see some if you closely at the picture below.SAMSUNG CSC

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On our first day in town we encountered a bike rally of about 100 bikes in the main square. We have not seen many bikes since arriving in Mexico, nearly 2 months ago and it seemed they were all here in one place.

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We really loved the atmosphere here but were driven out by the cold in the end.

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The journey down to the lowlands was 200km of winding, mountain roads with a lot of fog and some rain.

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The villages are poor here and remind me of Laos or Nepal but they are not as quaint.

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Arriving in the thick, moist jungle of Palenque, our intention was to stay and extra day to visit the Mayan ruins. However, our plans were thwarted by very heavy rain, forcing us to stay in the hotel and chill out for the day (never a hardship). We will pick the ruins up on the way back through Mexico in a couple of months.

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We are now heading across the Yucatan peninsula and down into Belize and across to Guatemala to arrive at Lake Atitlan in time for Christmas weber we have rented a house for the holiday.

 

3rd-11th November Mazatlan to San Miguel del Allende, Mexico

It has been a week of two halves. The first not so good the second wonderful. We started our mainland Mexico adventure in Mazatlan. This is a huge, rundown, seaside resort on the Pacific Coast, very reminiscent of somewhere like Jomtien in Thailand and fairly underwhelming as a destination. We found a lovely apartment where they let us bring the bike inside at night. Security is very tight here as it is on the edge of Sinaloa, one of the cartel strongholds.

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We moved on to a small village town called San Blas. This was a very poor place but had a rustic charm. The people were lovely and we stayed opposite the school where the marching band was having their rehearsal. In the morning on our way to breakfast though we saw a needle and other things lying in the street which made us feel there may be a more sinister side to the place.

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Our next destination was Guadalajara, the second biggest city in Mexico. We rode through the area where they grow the cacti and make most of the Tequila in Mexico.

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To be honest, I was pretty disappointed and felt quite overwhelmed by the noise, traffic and potential security issues. The historic centre was lovely but a very tiny part of a huge, sprawling city.

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You can see how much of the beautiful old city has been torn down, although there is some interesting brutalist architecture, if you are into that kind of thing. We could not find anything to eat there to satisfy our needs and ended up back at the room with a pizza and warm beer. I would not go back there.

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Things started to pick up when we arrived at Guanajuato. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the stunning silver cities founded by the Spanish in the 18th century. The nearby silver mine once produced 65% of all of the world’s silver so there was incredible wealth here and it can be seen in the amazing colonial buildings.

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We first stayed in a village nearby called Valenciana. Our little rented house was beautifully rustic but was very chilly at night being at 2,000m.

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We then moved into the town and stayed in another little house at the top of a very steep hill. This is inescapable as the whole city is build on steep hills.

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The houses are all painted wonderful bright colours.

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There is also a labyrinth of tunnels acting as the road network and as city car parks. These are quite extraordinary. The streets are so steep that I had to get off the bike and walk. It was pretty scary as the roads are also cobbled. Dave is certain that we will drop the bike at some point in one of these towns.

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With a huge student population, there is a great vibe in Guanajuato. There was great food and plenty of places to sit out and drink cheap beer. We loved it.

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These amazing sculptures are dotted about and you can visit the birthplace of Diego Rivera, the famous muralist who was married to Frieda Kahlo.

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The city is incredibly beautiful and somewhere we would come back to.

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Only 90km up the road we headed for San Miguel del Allende. On our way we passed about 1000 cowboys all heading for some special party.

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San Miguel is another stunning colonial city, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built on very steep hills.

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It has been populated by a large number of expats from the USA. It is extraordinarily well preserved but does not have the Disneyland feel that some over persevered places can have.

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Although there are fantastic European style bakeries, vegetarian restaurants and swanky craft shops to service the gringo population and visitors, it is still a real Mexican town full of friendly locals going about their daily business.

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When we arrived yesterday, I visited the dentist to have root canal work done. It was not the best evening of my life but it was OK and it feels good now it is over. Today, I have been treating myself to some cafe culture by way of reward for my braveness. Dave also had his eyes tested and ordered some reading glasses. So we are taking advantage of the cheap medical services Mexico has to offer.

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We are staying in a lovely, old hotel. Many hotels have shared or private kitchens so we can cook.

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Santo Domingo Suites-our hotel

Over the last week, we have also been squirrelling away on the job front. We have both been invited to Brasilia for a shortlist interview at the American School for post of Lower School Principal for me and ICT Integration Teacher for Dave. Due to complications with the temporary import of the bike into Mexico, Dave is not able to fly to Brazil but I will be going at the end of next week. I have also made the next stage of interviews at Geneva English School for Head of School and I have had/ have coming up two Skypes with schools in Hong Kong.We will be heading towards Mexico City in the next few days so I can buy clothes for my interview and fly out to Brazil.

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