22nd October-2nd November- Baja California Sur to Mainland Mexico

So it has been over a week since I last posted. There has not been much to report as we have been holed up most of the time while I have been working on the thesis. We have also both had some job interviews by Skype with schools in Brazil, Singapore and Switzerland.

11666268_10153755529199515_4294153109019776144_n

We spent a couple of days in La Paz and celebrated our 17th wedding anniversary there.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

We also visited the customs office in order to get the documents we need to import the bike to the mainland. We do not need a carnet de passage for Mexico in order to import but we did need to leave a deposit of about US$400 which we get back when we leave the country. This is to guarantee that we do not sell the bike illegally while we are here.

SAMSUNG CSC

We then moved to Cabo San Lucas at the tip of Baja.  There was some nice scenery on the way.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

And a bit of dodgy road.

SAMSUNG CSC

Cabo is famous for spring break among college students in the USA. We were expecting it to be debauched but after living in Thailand for 6 years, it seemed very tame. We stayed near the marina and enjoyed pottering about there. There were some decent shops and I managed to replace some of my clothes that have worn out. It is amazing how good quality stuff just wears out when you have been away for 15 weeks and using it a lot. The rubber on the souls of my sandals just split in half and something else developed a huge hole.

SAMSUNG CSC

There is a posh department store called Liverpool. Which we thought was amusing.

SAMSUNG CSC

We moved to San Jose del Cabo while we were waiting for the ferry crossing to Mazatlan.  We could have gone earlier but there were no cabins available for a week. We are just too old these days to sleep on deck or in an airline chair with video blaring out all night. We were lucky to find a gorgeous apartment to stay in cheaply, while we waited. We were the first to have stayed there.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

Dave did some work on the bike. We cooked a lot of meals as Mexican food is truly terrible for vegans (like Spain).

SAMSUNG CSC

The town was quite charming. A taste of what is to come on the mainland.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

It was here that the dentist informed me I need root canal work. I am heading to the dentist in Mazatlan tomorrow to have it done. At least it is cheap here. Well US$300, if you call that cheap. In the USA it would cost about US$1000. In the UK, if you are lucky enough to have an NHS dentist, it costs 80 quid but who has an NHS dentist these days?

We were sad to leave Baja. We have loved it but we are very excited to get to central Mexico.

SAMSUNG CSC

The ferry to Mazatlan was great fun. This is a pretty old ferry with few facilities, used mainly by truckers.

SAMSUNG CSC

We met some others bikers while waiting to board.

SAMSUNG CSC

2015-11-01 13.46.55

We had to hunker down in the shade of the bike to avoid getting heat stroke.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

We really enjoyed having a couple of beers on board, sitting in the slightly grotty bar with the truckers and then sitting up on deck watching the sunset.

2015-11-01 17.34.32

We now head up into the central highlands and the beautiful colonial heartland of Mexico. We will be visiting Guadalajara, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende and many other places. There might be interviews coming up which will mean me flying out of Mexico for a few days but let’s wait and see what happens. We have tickets for Pearl Jam in Mexico City at the end of the month, so lots to look forward to.

Sunday 18th-Wednesday 21st October-Loreto, Baja California, Mexico

We have spent 4 wonderful days in the lovely, small town of Loreto on the coast north of La Paz. This has been one of our favourite places of the last 3 months.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

It feels very Mexican here. It is green and hot. The garden of the beautiful Damiana Hotel is full of fruit trees and butterflies and a hummingbird.

SAMSUNG CSC

Everything is colourful and the people are lovely. We have lain in hammocks and chilled out and I have done a lot of work on my thesis. It is very easy to think here.

SAMSUNG CSC

The hotel is really a special place. We have a gorgeous casita in the garden which the owners have given us for a reduced price. We were even welcomed with a free bottle of cold beer each when we arrived hot and tired.

SAMSUNG CSC

It is quiet as it is the low season and we almost have the place to ourselves.

SAMSUNG CSC

We can cook in the wonderful outdoor kitchen on the 1953 vintage stove.

SAMSUNG CSC

Shopping for food is not as easy as we hoped. It is actually hard to get good quality vegetables and the sourcing tinned beans is very difficult, unless they are refried in lard. I guess most Mexicans cook their beans from dried. Avocados are also sold unripe for you to ripen at home. The town is really cute with a few craft shops and plenty of restaurants and an old mission from 1679.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

And some odd shops. Notice no apostrophe.

SAMSUNG CSC

It will be very hard to leave but we are heading for La Paz tomorrow, after I do a Skype interview with a school in Brazil in the morning!

Thursday 15th-Sunday 18th October-Baja California, Mexico

SAMSUNG CSC

We have had three wonderful days crossing the desert from El Rosario to Loreto. We crossed another time zone and travelled through some awesome landscapes.

SAMSUNG CSC

Baja is much better than people tell you. The skies are the biggest I have seen.  And the emptiness is impressive.

SAMSUNG CSC

Also after 48 hours of feeling disoriented in a less developed country, I now feel like I have always been here and remember all of the reasons that we have chosen to travel almost exclusively in the less developed world for the last 20 years.

SAMSUNG CSC

The highlights of the last 3 days have definitely been the landscapes. Baja is much more mountainous than I ever imagined.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

It is also much greener than you think.

SAMSUNG CSC

The weird cacti are a major highlight.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

They just go on for ever. We have been riding through landscapes like this for over 500 miles. I have not got tired of them yet.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

Last night we stayed in the oasis of San Ignacio. This was just like oases I remember from travelling in Egypt, full of date palms. We saw vermillion flycatchers on the way to breakfast this morning. 

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

Doing yoga out by the pool at 6am was wonderful. The air was so cool.

SAMSUNG CSC

The town came to recognition in the 1700s due to the mission built here by the Jesuits who used the town as a base to spread Christianity across Baja.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

We have also seen a fair few volcanoes today which were unexpected.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

We have seen both the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez which is effectively a massive, almost lagoon separating the east coast of Baja  from the mainland of Mexico. We will be spending more time on this coast over the next few days.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

One of the highlights for Dave has been the off road riding where there are roadworks.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC

He loves the sand a lot more than I do.

SAMSUNG CSC

SAMSUNG CSC